Cultural Appropriation in Fashion

The town of Paisley, Scotland, is historically significant for its impact on fashion, particularly in the 19th century when it became renowned for producing imitation Kashmiri shawls, featuring the now-iconic “buta” pattern. This recognition led to the pattern being named “paisley,” yet it highlights a historical instance of cultural appropriation, erasing the pattern’s origins connected to the shapes of pinecones and mangoes.

This conversation around cultural appropriation has resurfaced in light of a recent collection by the Italian fashion brand Prada, which included footwear that bears a strong resemblance to traditional Kolhapuri chappals. The footwear, referred to simply as “leather sandals” in Prada's Spring-Summer 2026 collection, has sparked outrage among India's fashion community and traditional Kolhapuri chappal makers for lacking any acknowledgment of its Indian roots.

Key Points:

• Historical Context: The term "paisley" originated from a Scottish town known for its imitation Kashmiri shawls in the 19th century.
• Cultural Appropriation: The naming disconnect between the paisley pattern and its Kashmiri origins exemplifies early cultural appropriation.
• Prada's Collection: The Spring-Summer 2026 collection featured footwear similar to Kolhapuri chappals but did not recognize its Indian origins.
• Community Reaction: The fashion community in India reacted with indignation at Prada’s perceived oversight.
• Fashion’s History: History shows a pattern of cross-cultural influences in fashion, leading to controversies, such as Gucci's past use of Sikh turbans.
• Emerging Collaborations: There is a growing trend among Western brands to collaborate with artisans from the Global South, shifting towards more respectful cultural exchanges.
• Notable Collaborations: Dior partnered with Mumbai’s Chanakya School of Craft for its pre-fall 2023 collection, and Louboutin collaborated with Indian designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee in 2017.

Current discourse suggests a broader need for recognition and respect concerning cultural origins and contributions in the fashion industry, highlighting the importance of giving credit to traditional artisans. The opportunity remains for brands, such as Prada, to address these issues by acknowledging sources of inspiration, ensuring a fair representation and appreciation of cultural heritages.

In summary, the ongoing dialogue about cultural appropriation in the fashion industry emphasizes a significant shift towards collaboration and recognition of the original cultures from which ideas, materials, and styles emanate.