Ownership Dispute over Kolhapuri Chappals

In response to the controversy surrounding the Italian fashion brand Prada's resemblance to Kolhapuri chappals, two corporations from Maharashtra and Karnataka have publicly reinforced their ownership of the Geographical Indication (GI) tag for these traditional sandals. The issue arose after Prada included sandals in its Spring/Summer 2026 men’s collection that resembled Kolhapuri chappals, which sparked significant backlash online and among artisan communities.

Key Points:

• Ownership of GI Tag: LIDCOM (Sant Rohidas Leather Industries) and LIDKAR (Dr. Babu Jagjivanram Leather Industries Development Corporation) hold the registered GI tag for Kolhapuri chappals, asserting that no other individual or organization can negotiate or represent any discussions concerning the GI with Prada or equivalent entities.

• Historical Context: Kolhapuri chappals have historical significance, having received royal endorsement in the 20th century from Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaj. The tradition can be traced back to the 12th-century saint movement. Today, the production region spans eight districts, split evenly between Maharashtra and Karnataka.

• Legal Proceedings: Following Prada's fashion show, local community members and artisans expressed their concerns, leading to a Public Interest Litigation (PIL) being filed in the Bombay High Court. The PIL alleged that Prada's use of GI-protected designs constituted a breach of intellectual property rights.

• Court Ruling: On July 16, 2025, the Bombay High Court dismissed the PIL, affirming that only the registered holders of the GI—namely, the leather industry development corporations of Maharashtra and Karnataka—are authorized to take legal action in such matters.

• Mission Statement: The two corporations have emphasized their commitment not just to protect the GI tag but also to advocate for the rights of thousands of local artisans, promoting the cultural significance of Kolhapuri chappals on both national and international fronts.

This situation highlights the intersection of traditional crafts with contemporary fashion and the importance of protecting indigenous designs under intellectual property laws.